Bordeaux to Pamplona via Donostia-San Sebastion
The bus left Bordeaux just after 6am and drove south to Bayonne (just before the France-Spain border), then after a brief stop carried to Donostia-San Sebastion on the Atlantic Ocean. The dual name reflects the Basque culture and history in Spain, a heritage very much alive in the names, signs and food.
The bus station was underground but popped head up above for a few minutes of sun – couldn’t quite make out the ocean – and down for a cafe con leche and a pinxtos (pinchos in Spanish). Then on to the next bus that climbed into the Pyrenees and through small towns that looked Whistler-like, but were probably more the inspiration for the Whistler designer as had been there for hundreds of years.
Pamplona
Pamplona is in Navarre and lies in a valley surrounded by mountains and you can see why control of the pass through the mountains was so crucial to control of the Iberian peninsula, and why King Carlos II of Navarre did whatever he needed to do to keep control. After a short but scenic one hour bus ride it was a ten-minute walk to a bar to get a very good beer and some pinchos. After some selfies for my sons, I left on another ten-minute walk and entered the old part of the city, easily finding 20 Calle del Pozo Blanco, the apartment I had rented for the night.
Walked the streets which were quiet, as the city, like most in Spain, shuts down between 2-4pm. Admired the architecture and cobbled streets. Not unlike Bordeaux.
Recharged my phone and watch and then found my way to the cathedral – of course.
I find myself drawn to gothic cathedrals, basilicas and churches for many reasons. They span the period I am writing in. From a purely aesthetic point of view, they also represent to me a sublime intersection of creative, artisanal and spiritual efforts that cannot so easily be found in contemporary society. I am always moved deeply when I enter these spaces that have been created, often over hundreds of years by hundreds if not thousands of people. Chaucer would have probably visited the main cathedrals of the cities I am visiting and would have seen similar sights – making another connection to him down through history.
A rest, then out again to window shop and take in the interesting styles of clothing and the many unusual items for sale. I love the cobbled streets that Chaucer would have also walked and after walking enough of them get a sense of what Chaucer would have seen (the old part of Pamplona has not changed substantively) when he arrived across the mountain pass from Bordeaux and entered the largest city in and capital of Navarre.
Then out later for some pinchos and wine standing up, and it was very busy from 8pm on.
Next morning I went out and got coffee and a small bite then walked to the rental car place about 45 mins away. Interesting walk. Nice day, lots to see. Passed the Pamplona bullring, the Playa de Toros. It’s hard not to talk about the running of the bulls (held annually in July) in this city as there so many references to this event, and so much of the tourism industry is dependent on it, that seeing the bullring (at least from the outside) reminded me of this part of the heritage of the city and country. Think what you will of the practice, but its roots were practical, for the bull herders needed to move their bulls from the city corral to the Plaza de Toros, and locals goaded them on. When people started running in front of the bulls is up for debate; see more on this site.
Then off to Burgos via Logrono and Najera was the plan, then spend the night and return so I could see the site of the largest battle in the Hundred Year’s War just east of Najera from two different directions. As with many things in life, especially on a journey to another country, things didn’t work out quite as planned. Right after filling up the tank (was weird driving a gas car after 18 months driving electric) just outside the city some weird lights on the car came on. Turned around and drove back toward Pamplona then figured out it was seatbelts in back seat with stuff on them. Sorted that, lights when off, then turned around and headed back toward Logrono and Najera.
Puenta la Reina
Stopped at Puente la Reina, one of the important stops along the Camino de Santiago between Pamplona and Logrono which houses an ancient hostel for pilgrims that was very busy this day.
Entered the church and a man was playing period music on his guitar and the hairs stood up on the back of my neck. Simple music, in this context, produced a deep emotional reaction. One can imagine how a pilgrim felt, travelling long hours or even days along what could be a dangerous road, upon reaching the hostel and then after rest and food, and entering this church.
The bridge a couple of blocks later dates from before Chaucer’s time, and he would have traveled over it, surrounded by pilgrims, and also soldiers flocking to make their fortune as the civil war between Pedro and Enrique flared up.
About 20 minutes later I spotted a very cool looking church steeple to the right up on a hill and pulled off and drove to a very small and ancient town called Montjardin that had a very old castillo and a few buildings. Drove up through very narrow streets and came to a stop above the town. What a view. Ancient and very much inhabited.
On either side of the valley between Logrono and Burgos lies mountains – the Pyrenees to the north. So any army coming from the east would have to pass Logrono.
Then crossed from Navarre into Rioja. Just north of Logrono, the Spanish provinces (and medieval kingdoms) of Rioja and Navarre, and the Basque country, intersect, making the city an important strategic location. And it lies astride the River Ebro, the biggest river in northern Spain. Rioja was then and still one of the most important wine growing regions of Europe. And in Logrono, both Judaism and Muslim faiths were tolerated, resulting in a culturally rich city. And of course the city lies along the Camino de Santiago. A rich palimpsest of history and culture.
Logrono
Stopped in Logrono and had lunch there in the early afternoon – lots of pinchos (northern Spain version of tapas). And charged my phone. The whole trip was about charging electronic devices. Would be returning the next day but wanted to get the lay of the land going west, as Prince Edward and Chaucer would have seen it.
Headed toward Najera only 30 kms away but wanted to go around a large hill from the northwest and go to Huercanos first (to mimic the path of Edward’s army) but got onto a toll highway (these start with an “A”, I learned too late) and didn’t realize there was no exit for about 150 kms, so no way to get to Najera or Heurcanos and see the battle site. Live and learn. FYI: Highways that start with an “A” are fast toll freeways. If you want to be able to get off and/or not pay a toll, take the “N’ highways which are almost as fast and far more scenic.
Crossed from Rioja into Castile somewhere along the way. More lights came on the car but I kept going. A 150 km detour going northeast, then finally was able to turn south toward Burgos. A bit nerve wracking wondering if the car would die. But no overheating or smells so figured it was a faulty sensor, as had that happen on a rental car once before.
More nerve wracking when tried to exit the toll and the machine wouldn’t take my ticket. After calling for help the woman (No hablas Inglis! was her answer to my question on speakerphone, and she kept saying “No, no, blanco, blanco!”). There were no white places to put the ticket. Finally a guy came over and put it into a space [clear= blanco?] and it worked. It was Fernando to the rescue – big smile, laughing, no problemo! Would have never figured it out.
Then finally made it to Burgos.