Returned the rental car but it was closed so left the keys under the back wheel and left a voice message – hopefully they understand it. Uber didn’t work for a ride to the train station (“No cars available”) so asked at a nearby fitness place if they could call a taxi. Laura patiently understood my mangled Spanish the taxi arrived and I made it to the train station. Took a “1st Class” train to Barcelona at 9:30am as the next train was at 5pm. Expensive (the flight back to London was cheaper) and the train was a bit run down and in no way felt first class, but I was glad to relax and just able to take in the sights. Which soon included a well maintained Roman aquaduct that ran across a farmer’s field for a good half a kilometre. Impressive!
The train passed Tudela as it followed the Ebro River, leaving Rioja and crossing into what is now the province of Aragon. In 1366, this formed the eastern border of a much larger Kingdom of Aragon that extended to Barcelona. History is never far away in Spain, with old and new constantly juxtaposed.
The train then passed through Zaragoza underground and made its way to Barcelona. The city is older than London, with the settlement of Barkeno founded by the Laietan tribe in the 6th century BC., with the Romans founding Barcino in 10 BC. Both Spanish and Catalan are spoken here, and like the Basques, there is pride in their unique history, heritage and language.
Arrived at the underground train station in Barcelona and took the subway to Playa de Catalunya and emerged into sun and a city that so resembled Buenos Aires (or rather, Buenos Aires resembled Barcelona). Walked to a 24 hour minimart where I spoke the secret code and the cashier gave me the keys to the apartment that was a 15 minute walk, located in the Gothic Quarter. Up five flights of stairs to a bedroom overlooking a treed square and a busy laneway with laundry hanging above through the kitchen window. Changed and out to see the sights.
And impressive sights they were! A lot of tourists. The city didn’t close between 2-4pm as it had in Pamplona, Logrono, Burgos and Olite. First stop was Barcelona Cathedral.
This gothic cathedral was built by the people of Barcelona between the 13th and 19th centuries, originally in the “Catalan Gothic” style of architecture. Of note is the unique cloister filled with palm trees and swans. Surprising to see.
Took the elevator to the roof and had a spectacular view of the city, from the harbour less than a kilometre to the southeast to Gaudi’s Basilica La Sagrada Familia three kilometres directly north. And surrounding the city were mountains.
In January, 1366, Bertrand du Guesclin and Sir Hugh Calveley, leaders of two powerful mercenary armies, arrived at the Palace of Barcelona after making their separate ways through France. King Charles of France and the Pope had paid them both to leave France under the pretext of battling the Moors who still held part of southern Iberia (Spain). But really they were there at the behest of King Pere the Fourth of Aragon and Enrique Trastamara to try and destroy Pedro the Cruel (the original entrance of palace steps are to the left).
Barcelona was a rich and powerful city, and King Pere had held power for 35 years, nearly as long as King Edward the Third. But he had been unable to rid himself of Pedro after a decade of trying and so he gave them both a lot of gold, land and titles. Chaucer, at that time just arrived in Bordeaux, would eventually find Calveley and try and turn him away from Enrique and back toward Pedro, who was allied with England. And lay the seeds for the Battle of Najera the following year.
And then it was time to enjoy the city…and take in the art, museums, architecture, colour, bars, social spaces, warmth and gestalt of this very special city.
And find a bar called “Story”, for writers – of course.
